Chamonix: the insider guide

Why Chamonix

Chamonix is not a ski resort. It’s a mountain town, and one of the most spectacular places on earth. Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe, towers above the main street, the first Winter Olympic Games were held here in 1924, and it remains the world capital of mountaineering, freeride and steep skiing.

What that means for you: some of the most thrilling skiing in the Alps for strong skiers, a lively town with real restaurants and bars, and plenty to do for non-skiers, from the Aiguille du Midi cable car to the Mer de Glace railway. A short drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel takes you to Courmayeur in Italy for lunch.

The ski areas

Chamonix’s ski areas are spread along the valley and mostly not linked by lifts; free buses and the valley train connect them. One lift pass, Mont-Blanc Unlimited, covers them all and much more.

Beginners will find easy areas such as Les Planards, Le Savoy and La Vormaine close to town.

The Vallée Blanche

The Vallée Blanche is one of the great ski descents of the world: about 20 km of off-piste from the top of the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m) down the glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif, past icefalls and seracs, often all the way back to Chamonix. It’s not technically extreme, but it’s high-mountain glacier terrain: always go with a certified mountain guide. We’ll book one for you, and make sure the snow conditions are right.

Marc’s insider tip On a bad-weather day, head for Les Houches: the trees give you visibility when the high areas are a white-out. And take the Aiguille du Midi cable car on a clear day even if you don’t ski the Vallée Blanche; the view of Mont Blanc from 3,842 m is unforgettable.

Where to eat & après

Chamonix has a real town’s food scene: from Savoyard classics and lively bistros to fine dining such as the restaurant at the Hameau Albert 1er. On the mountain, the huts at Flégère, Brévent and Balme are perfect for a sunny lunch. Après starts in the town bars at the bottom of the slopes and goes on late; Chamonix is a town that doesn’t go to sleep at ten.

Snow: what to expect

We analysed six winters of measurements (2020/21 to 2025/26) from two Météo-France stations: Aiguilles Rouges (2,365 m) on the mountain above Brévent-Flégère, and Le Tour (1,500 m) at the foot of the Balme area. Average snow depth:

Two very different pictures: high up, the snowpack keeps growing well into April, while at 1,500 m it melts quickly in spring. The high station is exposed to wind, so its year-to-year values vary a lot. For skiing, that means: January to March for the whole valley, and in spring stick to the high areas like the Grands Montets and Brévent-Flégère.

You can check today’s measured snow depth and the forecast in the box next to this article.

Getting there

• By plane: Geneva is only about 1 hour away by road, one of the shortest transfers in the Alps.
• By train: Chamonix has its own station, with connections via Saint-Gervais or Martigny.
• Private transfer: we organise door-to-door transfers from Geneva.

Good to know

• Lift pass: Mont-Blanc Unlimited covers Chamonix’s areas, the Aiguille du Midi and, with the right option, Courmayeur and more.
• Off-piste and glaciers: Chamonix is serious mountain terrain. Ski off-piste only with a certified guide.
• Non-skiers have plenty to do: the Aiguille du Midi, the Montenvers railway to the Mer de Glace, spas and a lively town.

Planning a week in Chamonix? A hotel in town, a guide for the Vallée Blanche and a table at the Hameau Albert 1er: tell us what you have in mind and we’ll send you two tailor-made proposals.