Lech Zürs: the insider guide

Why Lech

Lech is the polished, grown-up sister of St. Anton. A village of wooden chalets and family-run hotels along a river, with some of the best food in the Alps and an atmosphere that is relaxed rather than rowdy. Royals and film stars have holidayed here for decades, yet it never feels flashy.

What makes Lech special is its balance: a world-class ski area on the doorstep, but a village that has stayed small, traditional and quiet in the evenings.

The ski area in numbers

Lech, Oberlech and Zürs form the western part of Ski Arlberg, which also includes Warth and Schröcken and, across the Flexenbahn, St. Anton, St. Christoph and Stuben.

The skiing

Lech is wonderful for intermediates and families. Wide, beautifully groomed reds and blues sweep down from the Rüfikopf, Zuger Hochlicht and Kriegerhorn, and the car-free plateau of Oberlech is one of the best places in Austria for children to learn.

• Do the White Ring. The 22 km circuit through Lech, Zürs, Zug and Oberlech is a rite of passage. Allow about half a day, more with a long lunch.
• Strong skiers should head to Zürs, the Madloch and the ski routes, and cross the Flexenbahn into St. Anton’s steeper terrain.
• Freeriders have some of the most celebrated powder fields in the Alps on their doorstep. Always ski with a local guide.

Lee’s insider tip Book a table at a hut for lunch every day, not just once. In Lech, lunch is half the point. And if it snows overnight, be on the first lift at Zürs: the Arlberg gets more snow than almost anywhere in the Alps.

Where to eat on the mountain

• Balmalp (2,100 m): wooden hut with 360° views and spectacular sunsets over the Zug valley, plus an ice bar.
• Der Wolf: modern wooden architecture between Weibermahd and Petersboden, with a fireplace and a sun terrace.
• Kriegeralpe: rustic and authentic on the run from the Kriegerhorn. Order the Käsespätzle.
• Rud-Alpe: big sun terrace on the Schlegelkopf slope, with pans of hearty food and evening hut nights.
• Rüfikopf Panorama Restaurant (2,350 m): views across Lech, Zürs and Zug, with a fondue evening on Fridays.
• Schlegelkopf Restaurant: oysters, steaks and sushi on the mountain, very Lech.
• Seekopf (Zürs): a large sun terrace at the same spot since 1978.

Dinner in Lech

Lech Zürs has one of the highest densities of top restaurants in Austria. In recent restaurant guides, Rote Wand Chef’s Table in Zug was named best restaurant in Vorarlberg by Falstaff and was the first Vorarlberg restaurant to receive 18.5 points from Gault&Millau. Aurelio’s, the Griggeler Stuba, Jakob & Ethel im Klösterle, the restaurant at the Almhof Schneider and the Bergkristall are also among the region’s highest-rated tables.

These book out early in peak season. Tell us your dates and we’ll reserve them for you.

Après & evenings

Après in Lech is civilised: champagne on a sunny terrace rather than dancing on tables. Hotel bars, wine cellars and a handful of lively spots in the village keep things going after dinner. For a real party, St. Anton is just a short taxi ride away.

Snow: what to expect

There is no long-term snow station in Lech itself, so we use two stations of GeoSphere Austria in Ski Arlberg, with seven winters of measurements (2019/20 to 2025/26):

On the mountain, the snowpack typically peaks at over 2 m. The Arlberg catches storms from the west and north, which is why it is one of the snowiest ski areas in the Alps. Down at village level the snow melts much earlier in spring, so for a late-season trip choose a hotel close to the lifts.

You can check today’s measured snow depth and the forecast in the box next to this article.

Getting there

• By train: to Langen am Arlberg (or St. Anton), then a short bus or taxi ride up to Lech.
• By plane: Zurich is about 2 hours away, Innsbruck about 1.5 hours.
• By car: via the Arlberg pass and the Flexen pass road. In heavy snow the road can close for a few hours; Lech is then cut off, which regulars consider part of the charm.

Good to know

• Oberlech is car-free in winter and reached by cable car, perfect for families who want to ski straight from the door.
• Peak weeks (Christmas, New Year, February) sell out very early in Lech. Book well ahead or let us find the gaps.
• The Ski Arlberg pass covers everything from Warth to St. Anton.

Planning a week in Lech? A ski-in chalet in Oberlech, a family hotel in the village or a table at the Rote Wand: tell us what you have in mind and we’ll send you two tailor-made proposals.